What is pH, N, P and K?
Before you can decide on what to plant, I highly recommend a soil test. You can get these at any garden store for fairly cheap. I know what you are thinking, “I did terrible in chemistry. How am I gonna know how to test the soil and what to look for?” Well, don't let the name fool you. It is pretty simple to do and there is no way you can fail this test!
With a soil test kit, you can expect clear instructions on how to take a sample and read the results. Why is this so important? Let me give you an example.
When I took my first soil test of our sandy soil, I found out that it was lacking nitrogen, big time. I knew that growing certain vegetables like corn and green leafy types would be a challenge. But, I was deteremined to grow corn and ended up wasting time, money and space because I did not fertilize it enough. In other words, the corn didn't make it!
The first couple of years are a learning curve. Even with a soil test, you aren't going to have the perfect garden with perfect vegetables, but you can start with the knowledge of knowing what kind of fertilizer/s you might need, and do what you can to condition the soil.
Here we will discuss the pH level, nitrogen, phophorous and potassium in my simple terms. Did I tell you that I like simple? Too much detail just gets me confused!
Let me explain a few things about taking a soil test. There are usually four things that it will test for, the pH level, nitrogen, phophorous and potassium. When you look at fertilizer bags, you will see the three latter nutrients as this: NPK, and their ratio will always be in that order such as this: 15-5-5. You then know that the ratio is nitrogen-15, phosphorous-5 and potassium-5.
Simply put without going into too much detail, the pH level will tell you how acidic or alkaline your soil is. For vegetables, the average range should be 6.0- 7.5. Now, you might read on certain seed packets where a certain type of vegetable likes a slightly acidic soil. You will know, then, that your soil should not be more alkaline to grow this certain vegetable. If it is 7.5, the upper limit, a more acidic-loving vegetable might not do as well. Remember, the lower the pH number, the more acidic it is.
The next component the test will measure is nitrogen. Without nitrogen, you probably won't get a good yield out of your garden. Nitrogen is what makes the plant a healthy green. If it is lacking, the plant will turn yellow and not grow well at all. There are some vegetables that do not need that much, but I'm betting that most of the kinds that you will want to grow will need their fair share of nitrogen. There is a chart at the end of this chapter that lays it out for you and tells you what each type of vegetable needs.
Phosphorous is the P in the NPK ratio. It is also important for the growth and health of your plant. Phosphorous helps turn the nitrogen into being usable by the plant and is important for healthy root growth. It plays an important role in photosynthesis as well. Without it, plants will become spindly, stunted and will produce small, poor quality vegetables.
Potassium is another important mineral in the soil. Without it, plants can easily become stressed and diseased. Stunted growth, poor flower development and lower quality fruit and vegatables will result in a lack of potassium. Plants can look as if they need water, and their leaves might curl on the end if potassium is deficient.
Simple Soil Solutions!
So, what's it going to take to get your garden soil healthy? Couldn't you just spray some water soluble fertilizers on the young plants to give them the nutrients they need? Let me explain why I believe that this is not a sustainable method. But first, let me quote Eliot Coleman, a master at organic gardening and author of The New Organic Grower;
"The things that turn an infertile soil into a fertile soil are minerals and organic matter. If these are provided, the soil can excel on its own merits. Instead of a temporary crutch that must be provided time after time, a process is established that becomes self-sustaining. A fertile soil, like an educated mind, is a cumulative process, and with care it is capable of continuous improvement."
Can I get an amen? We must condition our soil and not the plant. A gardener might add soluble fertilizers and get good results, but, he will have poor soil year after year. You see, the plant gets fed, but the soil does not. That is what you see in most corn and bean fields, infertile soil with huge healthy looking corn and soybeans. They normally do not condition the soil, but apply plant fertilizer year after year after year. Sustainable? I don't think so. And, sadly, many gardeners are following this model as well.
What if we conditioned the soil so that we did not have to apply certain ammendments year after year? What if we used natural rock minerals so that the nutrients is readily available without upsetting the natural balance of the soil? I believe this is a healthier, more sustainable approach. But, what exactly does conditioning the soil mean?
Soil block making is simple(and a good arm workout) to start your seeds. It is the most sustainable method as all you need is soil and of course the soil block maker that you can use year after year!
Simple Soil Solutions!
So, what's it going to take to get your garden soil healthy? Couldn't you just spray some water soluble fertilizers on the young plants to give them the nutrients they need? Let me explain why I believe that this is not a sustainable method. But first, let me quote Eliot Coleman, a master at organic gardening and author of The New Organic Grower;
"The things that turn an infertile soil into a fertile soil are minerals and organic matter. If these are provided, the soil can excel on its own merits. Instead of a temporary crutch that must be provided time after time, a process is established that becomes self-sustaining. A fertile soil, like an educated mind, is a cumulative process, and with care it is capable of continuous improvement."
Can I get an amen? We must condition our soil and not the plant. A gardener might add soluble fertilizers and get good results, but, he will have poor soil year after year. You see, the plant gets fed, but the soil does not. That is what you see in most corn and bean fields, infertile soil with huge healthy looking corn and soybeans. They normally do not condition the soil, but apply plant fertilizer year after year after year. Sustainable? I don't think so. And, sadly, many gardeners are following this model as well.
What if we conditioned the soil so that we did not have to apply certain ammendments year after year? What if we used natural rock minerals so that the nutrients is readily available without upsetting the natural balance of the soil? I believe this is a healthier, more sustainable approach. But, what exactly does conditioning the soil mean?
Let me give you Simple Susie's way of sharing simple soil solutions in a simplified way so that simple folk like you and me can simply figure it out! Whew!
Oh, and by-the-way, it will keep your garden budget pretty simple too!
Nitrogen. Compost and/or composted manure is the best ammendment you can make with a zero budget. If you have grass eating animals, capitalize on the manure! You can put it on your garden in the fall and till it in, or, once it has been composted, apply it in the spring. You need at least 2-3 inches of this black gold. There are many ways to start composting and many sites will show you this simple way of applying organic matter. The best thing about compost/manure is that you can apply it every 2 years, not every year! Now we're talkin'!
Phosphorous. Rock phosphate is a finally ground rock powder that only needs to be applied every four years. After taking my soil test, phosphorous was pretty depleted in some areas, so, rock phosphate will be needed!
Potassium and micronutrients. Greensand is a seabed deposit that not only contains some potassium, but essential micronutrients as well. You can also use dried seaweed, but it can be a little pricey! Greensand can be applied the first and second year, then it will not need to be applied until four years later! If you find that you are sufficient in potassium the second year, you might not need it.
Soil pH. Limestone rock in it's natural form has calcium and magnesium that will raise the pH level. Sufficient levels range from 6.2-6.8 although some will give slightly different numbers. Depending on what your soil test reads the following year, you might not need to add lime every year.
Planting green manures(cover crops that you till in) is an excellent way to maintain your soil fertility once you have applied the above nutrients. You can do this after the planting season is over, or as a spring cover crop that can be quickly tilled in. Another great way to plant cover crops is by undersowing them the following year. This simply means that you plant them in between rows a few days after your plants have become established in your garden.
You might have noticed that I did not give you a bunch of alternatives to condition your soil. If you are like me, you just want it laid out for you sometimes. But, I do believe that these conditioners are the best choice. If you would like to get a more in depth look at organic gardening, including crop rotation, green manures and tons of other essential gardening topics, I recommend Eliot Coleman's, The New Organic Grower: A Master's Manual of Tools and Techniques for the Home and Market Gardener (A Gardener's Supply Book)
If you do not have a tiller, double digging is your best choice. Even with a tiller, double digging has many benefits. Watch my daughter, Savannah, and I show you how!
If you do not have a tiller, double digging is your best choice. Even with a tiller, double digging has many benefits. Watch my daughter, Savannah, and I show you how!
Soil block making is simple(and a good arm workout) to start your seeds. It is the most sustainable method as all you need is soil and of course the soil block maker that you can use year after year!
